When you decide to buy a backpack sprayer, there are five main factors to consider: operation, pump style, tank, durability and comfort.  While not the most expensive piece of equipment a homeowner can buy, the cost is still fairly considerable for the average home so you should be aware of the choices you can find.   I know personally, I bought a really cheap backpack sprayer a few years ago and it didn’t even make it through the full growing season.  I wish I would have done more investigating and known what I do now about the different options.

The first decision is whether to get a manual or a motorized sprayer.  A motorized sprayer is obviously much more convenient, but also costs a lot more to both buy and maintain. A very important component of the motorized sprayers is the backpack sprayer battery.  Make sure if you go with motorized unit, that the battery can handle both high and low sprayer psi output and will last from 3 to 5 hours between recharging. A  manual sprayer on the other hand is a lot cheaper, but if you have to do a lot of spraying you will grow tired of constantly pumping away. Manual sprayers are only recommended for small and or infrequent spraying. When looking at manual sprayers, make sure the pump handle is available to be switched for both right and left handed operation.  You’ll want the convenience of switching if you end up doing a lot of spraying.   Our recommendation though is if you have a LOT of spraying to do, go with the extra cost of the motorized one – you will not regret it.

The next thing to think about is the type of pump you want.  Most sprayers come with either piston or diaphragm pumps and each type has certain advantages and disadvantages. A piston type pump is cheaper and can generate good pressure, however they are not suitable for all types of pesticides. If you are using a pesticide that is powder based, it can wear out a piston pump very quickly, and you should therefore go for a diaphragm type pump, even if it is a little more expensive.

Sprayer tanks come in a wide variety of sizes. A bigger tank means less frequent refilling, but the trade off is that they are also much heavier. 4 gallon sprayers are the most popular units, and unless you sure you can handle something bigger, these are recommended.  Rarely will a homeowner need a larger tank for a job around the house.

You also need to make sure that the tank you are looking at can handle whatever chemical you intend to spray. While most are very sturdy, some chemicals can have unexpected reactions with certain types of materials which could either ruin your sprayer or even be potentially dangerous.  A sprayer is generally a fairly heavy duty piece of equipment, but it needs to be. Make sure when buying your sprayer that all seals, hoses and other accessories are rated to handle the chemicals that you are going to be using.

It might sound silly talking about comfort when considering a piece of work machinery, but think about it, you are going to be walking around with this trapped to your back, often in hot conditions and for hours at a time. Make sure the straps are comfortable and adjustable, and that the sprayer is neither too big or small for you to wear comfortably.

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If you are considering a major redo or update of your kitchen, your general contractor will probably present you with several choices for cabinets, countertops, flooring, windows, and other design elements. Most likely though, you will not see many choices of rangehoods.  Although it is an essential part of your kitchen design, most people…including contractors, rarely give the actual installing of range hood much of  a serious thought.  They usually just depend on the home owner to pick the one they want and then they’ll put it in.

Even though it seems rather simple, choosing the right range hood can make a big difference to the usability of your family’s most trafficked room.  Not only that, but it can also have a dramatic effect on your space’s appearance.  In order to make an informed decision, you should understand why you need one, and a little bit about how they work.  Then you can review the different styles available and choose the one that will work best for your situation.

Range hoods are necessary because they filter and vent the steam, smoke and hazardous gasses that can be produced when you cook.  Steam can carry things like grease which can become rancid and attract fungus or pests, smoke can contain irritants and contaminants, and hazardous gasses are, well, hazardous, so you definitely need to get these out of your home.

Most  hoods do this by combining three basic elements into their design.  They have an open vent and a canopy to contain the rising gasses, a blower or range hood exhaust fan which disperses them, and a filter that can trap these various pollutants.  Typically these are vented to the outside of the home, but when this is not the case, the filter becomes much more important.

There are several styles of range hoods, the most common of which is the under cabinet style.  This style, as the name suggests, is mounted under cabinets that are above the stove.  Often this style also has a light built into it to give you a convenient light source when cooking.

If your kitchen doesn’t have cabinets above the stove, you might decide to go with a wall mounted rangehood.  These rangehoods can give your kitchen a more elegant or professional feel, especially when matched with the right appliances.

If your kitchen is designed so that the stove is not pushed up against a wall, you may need to consider the island rangehood style.  This style is similar to the wall mounted one, except it hangs from the ceiling rather than getting mounted on the wall.  This style can be used whether your stove is on an island or not, but it is more common to see when it is.

And if space is a  big concern you could go for the downdraft style.  These rangehoods do not have a canopy like the others.  Instead, they are built into the back of the stove, and rather than trap the air and gasses as they rise, they force them back and out of the room.

Understanding your options, and the function of rangehoods, will help you make a better decision for your kitchen when you are remodeling.  And now you probably know more about picking the best rangehood for your home than your contractor does

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Some homeowners are afraid of cleaning their leather sofa. This kind of sofa can be very expensive and delicate, and one small mistake can damage it. Although this furniture requires special techniques for cleaning, the task could be a simple one if you have the right tools and procedures.

Before doing the cleaning task, here are some basic facts that you should know about leather. This product is created through the tanning of animal skin and rawhide. There are several forms of leather, all of which are based on the tanning processes used. These types include the vegetable tanned, chrome tanned, synthetic tanned, aldehyde tanned, and alum tawed leathers. In vegetable tanned leather, the primary tanning ingredient is tannin. Other plant based ingredients may also be used in this type of leather. Meanwhile, chromium sulfate and other chromium salts are used for tanning the chrome tanned type. The synthetic tanned form of leather is tanned utilizing aromatic polymers. Aldehyde tanned products are tanned using oxazolidine or glutaraldehyde compounds. Lastly, aluminum salts mixed with several protein sources and binders are used to transform the alum tawed product.

Here are some handy tips to clean your leather sofa. If your sofa is made from finished leather, the task is very simple. Using a rag, gently dampen some soap into the furniture. Use a clean towel or any clean fabric to wipe it dry. There are different cleaning methods for different kinds of stains. For ink stains, some home experts recommend spraying the sofa with any kind of hairspray and then wipe it clean. Water stains are easier to clean. Use damp cloths to remove these kinds of stains because water will naturally dry out from the sofa. Once the furniture is dry already, you can apply a leather conditioner on the area. Use a clean towel to gently blot grease stains. Some people believe that corn starch and talcum powder will remove the grease. For pet urine such as dog and cat urine, use cloth or paper towels to wipe them away. Some pet urine odors may still linger for a while. It is a good idea to apply pet urine odor removers. There are many commercial odor removers available. However, make sure to select one that is suitable for leather.

As you probably will agree, prevention is always the best strategy to keep your leather sofa clean. Always protect your sofa from harmful elements like direct sunlight, an open window (during bad weather water CAN find its way onto your sofa)   To help with this tactic a quick and a easy solution is to purchase  a sofa cover.   It doesn’t look very great compared to the natural leather, however it will preserve the couch during times that guests or friends aren’t over.    Also, avoid placing sharp objects so that the furniture will not be damaged.  Our kids aren’t allowed near the living room couch with anything sharp, or anything they can put in their mouth.  That means scissors, pencils, pens,  food, drink and pretty much everything else that can drop and stain the couch.

Treat your leather couch with care, and it will last for many years.  Its a significant investment…so take proper precautions to protect it from stains and other damage.

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When is the right time to replace your furnace? If your heating and cooling equipment is getting old (as in 15 to 20 years old) and currently needs to go through maintenance or repair once every year or two, there is no question, you really should consider replacing your furnace. You should also consider the option to replace it if you encounter several problems such as the following: some rooms in the house are either too cold or too hot; you have humidity issues; your furnace is creating too much noise; and your electric bills are going up and up despite your energy conservation efforts.

Here are few helpful tips before buying a new furnace for your home. You should always consider what energy or fuel source to use because fuel accounts for about 30% to 40% of your home’s energy cost. Electric and propane based furnaces cost more to operate, while natural gas is the cheapest. It is a good idea to consult a professional to determine your furnace’s Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE). AFUE will determine the thermal efficiency of your furnace. A higher AFUE means lower energy bills, thus more savings. Another factor to consider before buying a furnace is its size. A properly sized furnace will provide sufficient heat or cold and is more energy efficient. Homeowners should also buy a furnace that is ENERGY STAR certified to improve its energy efficiency.

How much does a brand new furnace cost? A typical natural gas standing furnace costs about $900 to $1600. The price of a typical self contained gas wall furnace is about $500 to $1500. This does not include installation fees. On the average, you will have to spend $2000 to $5000 when replacing an old furnace, including the cost of installation. Also, there are local municipalities and town governments that will require building inspection fees and permits, so always check with your local building codes and building departments.

If you plan to do the furnace replacement yourself, here are some very general tips.  We’re not experts at installing any HVAC systems, so you’ll have do some digging if you are looking for step by step directions.   At a high level,  be ready with the materials, tools and other hardware that will be needed. Inspect your home if it will require additional improvements so that the furnace will function properly. This means especially take a look at your circuit panel and electrical load coming into your house to see if it can accommodate a new system being isntalled.  It is also a good idea to collaborate with local suppliers or hardware stores – most of these stores offer good advice and even semi-guided installation. Always read the unit’s manual because each brand has its own steps for installing. Follow the steps carefully and if you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t be hesitant to consult professionals.   Honestly, we recommend that you hire a local Heating and Cooling company to do this type of work.  Unless you or someone you know has worked in the trades for a while, tackling a project like this is serious business and way beyond what most people want to tackle.

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You know how some people are “cat” people, and others are “dog” people?   I’m going to just come out and say it…I’m a dog person. My wife on the other hand is very much in the cat camp.  Its’ not that I dislike cats, its rather that I like dogs more.   One particular thing I really DON’T like about cats is the fact that house cats use their litter boxes inside the home.  Sometimes they also like to use other areas of the house for their potty spot too.  Carpet, rugs, and various other spots around homes are popular zones for cats to soil.   Of course, along with the fact that cat urine is usually very strong and can stain carpet permanently…it also happens to smell terrible.

As pet owners, all of us know that removing cat urine odor can be very a difficult, stressful and time consuming job. When the urine is in the floor, tiles or in any washable surface, there is no issue. But when the cat urine is in the carpet, rugs or other delicate and expensive textiles, that’s a big problem. If not properly washed or cleaned, the bad odor could stay for several months. Another hassle is that pets tend to return to the same place they have urinated before.

Before buying a cat urine odor remover, there are few helpful tips for naturally removing the odor. Upon noticing the cat urine, try to immediately remove by blotting it with paper towels, tissue or old rags. Pour a mixture of water and vinegar on the spot and let it dry to neutralize the bad smell. Vinegar is a proven household chemical for removing many kinds of odors including cat urine odor. When the surface has dried, you can sprinkle baking soda on the spot, to further remove the odor. Hydrogen peroxide is also effective in removing cat urine odor. Simply mix the chemical with water, liquid soap and baking soda, spray the mixture, and then rinse with warm water.   Make sure to test a small area of your carpet first though with the peroxide mixture. You definitely don’t want to bleach out the carpet’s natural color by using a harsh solution on non-color fast materials.    Once done with blotting and cleaning, delicate carpet or rug can  be air-dried. For not so-delicate fabrics, try washing them first with ordinary detergents and then using a gas dryer set on low heat.

For a stress-free removal of odor, there are many cat urine odor removers that are now available in the market. Here are some good things to know before buying one. Basically, cat urine odor removers are categorized into chemical, enzymatic and bacterial. Enzymatic based odor removers use enzymes to break down the proteins causing the odor. Bacterial based odor removers use bacteria to eat the urine residue, thus removing the stain. Chemical based odor removers break down or destroy the molecules which cause the odor. One disadvantage of chemical removers is that they sometimes cause discoloration of the fabric or furniture, thus are not recommended for delicate or expensive fabrics.

The best place to find cat urine odor removers is in the household chemicals section of a grocery. Most pet shops also offer such products. It is also best to buy these products online because you can compare their effectiveness and prices. How much these products cost? It depends on the brand, although enzymatic and bacterial based odor removers can be more expensive than the chemical ones.

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Gutter hangers are one of those small unnoticable things that  are definitely taken for granted.  However, without them, you literally can find yourself up a creek.  The purpose of gutter hanger brackets is that they hold your rain gutters in place in their correct positions to control the water’s flow.   Failing to install and position them properly with your gutters may cause water to stagnate and overflow which can in turn can damage your roof, shingles, and home exterior.

You can’t just walk into a hardware store and casually pick them out because you need to make sure that you choose the best ones that are compatible with your gutters and suit the overall look of your house. There are many different types that are available in stores everywhere but the most commonly used is the K Style, which has a clip situated in the front lip and is secured to the roofing of your house by inserting a screw or a nail into the gutter’s back and into the boards. Another commonly used type is the half round style, which is essentially used with half round gutters. People who want to add a little design to their gutters use the ornamental style. The basic styles of the ornamental types include copper, brass, and a patina finish but you can easily turn these into a variety of shapes for added decoration.

Here are a few tips to help you on how to install gutter hangers:

First, have someone hold one end of the gutter while you hold the other end as you snap a line of chalk to run your gutters along so you can have a guide to follow. If the gutter’s run is about 35 feet or less than that, an inch below the fascia board should be your starting point with the ideal slope of about a quarter inch for every ten feet of the gutter’s run. If it is more than 35 feet, the starting point is at the center and the slope will ideally be out to the sides and you will need a downspout on every end of the gutter.

Carefully mark each starting and low point. To attach the hangers, use deck screws and fasten them onto the fascia board about an inch from the roof’s end. Put a screw every 24 inches using the trail of chalk. At the other end, put a hanger about an inch away from the roof.

One more tip is that if you live in a climate that has several months of snow and ice, you may want to consider installing a heated gutter element inside your gutters.  Electric gutter tape is used to keep ice from freezing solid in your gutters and thus allowing water to flow.  This alleviates extra strain from ice weight on your gutters and will help give the brackets and hangers extra life.

Keep in mind that proper positioning and installation of gutter hangers will effectively protect your gutters from damage and make them last for a very long time.

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Window condensation is a common problem in many homes in cold climates.  Not only is it just plain a nuisance, but it can also can create a hazard to your family’s health if left unchecked.  Simply put, moisture causes mold to grow, and if let go long enough…it can soon take over a room. Not only that, but as moisture on windows accumulates and sets into the wood frames around your windows, the wood can begin to break down, weaken, and essentially disintegrate.  This of course can  be very expensive to repair. Fortunately, we’ve found a few handy tips to help alleviate window condensation.

The first thing to do is to make sure that adequate ventilation is available in your home. You can utilize ceiling fans to make sure that the air is circulated around the room. It is also advisable to install exhaust fans in the kitchen and in the bathroom. You may also want to ensure that there are no obstructions inside the air vents and that the windows are opened once in a while to prevent inadequate air circulation.  If you have a home with older “leaky” windows, this may actually be a good thing in preventing condensation. This is because the warm, moist air in your home can escape through the cracks.  This isn’t an ideal situation obviously because your home heating efforts are literally going out the window.

An important thing to remember is that window condensation…and by extension all moisture on windows… forms when the relative humidity in the room is too high for the temperature. Thus, you can either reduce the humidity inside the room or increase the temperature of the window’s surface. You can minimize humidity inside the room by utilizing the air vent when you are washing clothes, using the dishwasher, or cooking. The air vents or exhaust fans will ensure that the moisture is sent to the outside. You may also want to water your indoor plants by bringing them out of the room. Live plants always produce moisture and this effect is at its peak after the plants have just been watered. Firewood can also release moisture into the air so try to avoid keeping too much of  it inside the house. It is also essential to check the insulation for the attic for any discoloration that could serve as a clue that there is too much moisture in the room.

Meanwhile, when window condensation appears, it is advisable to wipe it off using a rag. This is vital if you want to minimize the possibility of having a mold problem. Make sure also that the rooms are heated because the warmer air is, the more humidity it would be able to contain and this is less humidity or water that will appear as condensation on the window.

Another important strategy is to get a dehumidifier. The size for your dehumidifier will depend on how large your room is. Before going out to shop for a dehumidifier, it is advisable to obtain the measurements of your home to ensure that you will be able to purchase a properly sized dehumidifier. If you currently have a whole house humidifier attached to your furnace, than you can also make sure to lower the settings on it, or shut it off completely.   This will cause the air flowing through your HVAC system to become much dryer which will in turn not produce moisture on the window surfaces.

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If you are unable to take a shower when somebody is watering the lawn or if the water from the faucet over your kitchen sink merely trickles, then you may be experiencing the inconvenience of low water pressure problems. First of all, if your neighbors are having the same problems as you, then the problem is probably not specific to your home or plumbing and you will need to call your city or town’s public works department and ask them to investigate. For example, just a few days ago, my wife came home from my daughters’ school and saw a large bulldozer and about 3 trucks with a half dozen men on the parkway in our front lawn.  It turns out that there was a main water leak in the street line and thus was causing low water pressure for the neighborhood as well as structural problems for the street and concrete curbing.

If the problem doesn’t appear to be widespread in your area, than the circumstantial evidence shifts back to you in thatif you are the only one with the problem, then there is likely something wrong with the pipes and valves that bring water to your home. If you have been living in your home for some time now and you are suddenly experiencing water pressure problems, there are a number of possibilities. There could be a leak in one of the water pipes leading to your home or something has clogged some of your valves or pipes. In older homes with galvanized steel piping, a copper repiping is a very common upgrade that many homeowners face.  Over time, the steel piping rusts, and builds calcium deposits thus shrinking the flow rate of the pipe.  I’ve gone through 3 of these  repipe projects myself and you can check out the posts linked below for more information.

Another possibility is that  a supply valve has also been rusted shut or perhaps is even only partially open. You may ask your utility service or a local plumber to check the supply valves in your home or you can try to check them yourself. You will first need to check the  main valve controlling the water supply from your utility and going to the water meter. You will also have to verify that the valve right after the water meter is completely open. Some older models of valves may even indicate that they are open but the reality is that they are partially closed. There is also a possibility that there is an obstruction within the valves or even possibly the meter, but the only way to get this checked is to request the water utility company to do it.

Low water pressure problems may be easier to solve if they are localized, which means that only a part of the home is affected. For example, only the shower head might be affected or only the faucet over the kitchen sink has low water pressure. If this is the case, then a part of the pipeline for this particular area is more than likely clogged or there could be a leak. You may want to dismantle the faucet or showerhead to see if a washer or rubber gasket is restricting the flow of water. I’ve also found that if you have hard water or have the utiltiy company shut off the water in your area (like we did just a few days ago) when you go back to turn on faucets and such, there is a lot of “gunk” that gets passed through the lines.  In faucets or shower heads, this stuff gets trapped in the screens and gaskets and needs to be cleaned out properly to restore water flow.   If the problem is not so obvious, you may need to enlist the services of a plumber to check the pipelines.

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Older dishwashers that many homeowners still use in their homes are quite noisy when  running, leading many of these people to look for information regarding the possible purchase of a new appliance that runs quieter.

Most people do not realize that a quiet dishwasher may cost more than a standard one, but unfortunately this is usually the case. Before making the decision to purchase a model that features quiet operation, you should decide if you are willing to pay more money for this added luxury. Consider for a moment if it is important to you and your family to have a quiet operating dishwasher. If you cannot stand the noise of the one you have now, then you may very well wish to look for a model that operates quieter.

The reason that quiet dishwashers cost more is due to the fact that the manufacturers must increase the amount of insulation that they add to the appliance. Some of the models available today have features such as food disposers that cause a good deal of noise when turned on. Some manufacturers offer models that include built-in programs that offer different noise levels for those times when the appliance may be running at night, for example.  If you are willing to pay the extra money you can find a dishwasher that offers both high performance and low noise levels in addition to energy efficiency.

The best dishwashers on the market today are packed with features such as energy efficient mode (low water and reduced heated drying), stainless steel interiors, water softening capabilities and ultra-quiet operation. Some even make use of sensors that can monitor the size of the load and adjust the cleaning power  during the washing stage. On others you are allowed to choose the appliance’s settings to tailor it to your personal habits and preferences that meet the load requirements to offer you the top efficiency. These models can easily cost $1000 and often come with extended warranties on parts and service. An average dishwasher designed for home use that features a quiet mode and that does not have all of the ‘bells and whistles’ of the highly sophisticated top models are priced at about half of that $1000 mark.

Locally, you can find quiet dishwashers at nearly any home appliance store. Before buying, it would be a good idea to check out consumer ratings to see how the different models size up regarding cleaning efficiency, reliability and convenience of use.   Popular manufacturer names that have high end quiet running washers include Maytag, GE, Kitchenaid, Bosch, and Sears Kenmore. Keep an eye out for good warranties as parts do break on occasion, especially with regular, heavy use. Taking the time to carefully inform yourself about key things to look out for will ensure that you choose a dishwasher that is well-suited to your needs.

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If you are planning on installing some new carpeting, hardwood floors or linoleum in your home and must first get rid of existing carpeting, you can remove it yourself and save  a considerable amount of money in doing so.  If you have a good strong back and a  bit of sheer muscle power, removing carpeting does not require many special tools that you will have to go out and purchase in order to finish the job.  One word of caution upfront…often time, old carpeting is mildewed and/or molded on its underside , so please make sure to wear protective clothing while removing it.  This includes rubber or cloth gloves, protective eyewear, and a respirator mask.

Carpeting is generally held in place with either tack strips or with glue. Tack strips are nothing more than strips of wood that have tacks hammered through them. If the carpeting is being held down with tack strips, the tacks face upwards so that they can hold the carpet into place. This is also a good moment that you will want towear a pair of work gloves so that you do not get pricked on your hands as you pull the carpet up and off the strips of wood. You may need to use a pair of ordinary locking pliers in order to get a good grip on the edge of the carpet in order to remove it from the tack strip. Once you get it started, continue pulling it up and off the strips around the entire room. Once the carpet is removed it is best to cut it into strips using a utility knife so that it is easier to handle and remove from the room.  Your local refuse company may require that you cut up sections of carpet in 6 foot lengths or less.  It makes it easier for them to pick it up and so it may make sense for you to just cut into those sizes upon removing the carpet from your floor.

For carpet removal in which the carpet is glued in place you will have a much easier time of it since the glue is only applied to the seams and the edges. Simply use a utility knife to cut the carpet from one corner to another, making a large X that meets in the middle. If you roll up the  pieces after cutting them free, they will be quite easy to handle when carrying them out of the house.

If the flooring below the carpet has glue or adhesive still remaining on it, you have a few options.  First, for removing carpet glue, you may just be able to scrape it with a flat blade scraper.  The key though is that you will want to heat up the glue to make it soft. You can do this on a concrete floor by pouring boiling water on it and let it sit for a few moments.  Just by doing this, you can avoid using many harmful chemicals, that by the way, don’t work very well on cold concrete.   If on the other hand you have hardwood floors underneath the carpet, you may not feel comfortable pouring water on them.  Instead you can use a heat gun and a plastic scraper.  I found a nice set of pictures on Flickr that illustrates the process.   Nice job Dustin!

If you are ordering new flooring and do not wish to undertake the carpet removal project yourself, you could check with the company whom you are purchasing the flooring from to see how much they would charge you for removing the old carpeting for you.   Many times, carpet removal is included as part of the new installation price.  If this is not an option, consider paying a strong friend or neighbor $50 or $100 to come to your home to do it for you.

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If you are looking for a way to greatly enhance the looks of the exterior of your home, consider purchasing plastic shutters. Not only are these types of shutters highly affordable but they add a great deal of curb appeal to your home.  After all, almost all of a home’s outside windows could use a bit more detail.

Plastic shutters are very durable.  They withstand all types of weather conditions very well including rain, snow, direct sunlight and dramatic changes in temperature. They are not prone to rotting or pitting like their wooden counterparts so maintenance requirements are low.  Adding shutters to your home not only adds aesthetic appeal but they can actually increase the value of your home. Remember, its not necessarily the amount of money that gets invested that returns value, but the perception of the buyer.  If the home looks better when these outdoor shutters have been installed and maintained properly, you’re going to get a higher asking price when it comes time to sell.

As for shutter installtion, It is quite easy to install vinyl shutters or plastic shutters yourself. They are normally screwed or bolted directly onto the building and it takes just a few minutes to completely dress a window. If you are adding them to a home that already has vinyl siding attached to it, shutters will literally just screw into side of the home.  You’ll want to create pilot holes in your siding though and defintely don’t do this work in cold weather.  Vinyl siding can crack in cold weather if you try to put screws or nails into it.  If you are installing plastic shutters into brick or stucco material, you’ll want to pre-drill holes using a masonry bit.   Be sure to measure properly also.  No one wants “extra” holes in their masonry if they can avoid it.   Take your time to do it right the first time.   Of course, the  do it yourself  route is not for everyone. If you would rather have someone else install the shutters you can easily find a local general handyman to do the job for you.

If you take a trip to your nearest home improvement store you should be able to find a wide variety of these shutters.  However, if you do your shopping online you will find many more types, styles and colors to choose from. Another advantage to shopping online for shutters is that these stores will deliver the shutters directly to your door as opposed to a local store wherein you will be required to transport them home yourself.  On top of that, you may be able to save money on sales tax as online stores usually won’t charge you for taxes or shipping, thus allowing you to report the purchase at the end of the year and thus keep your money in your own pocket longer.

The cost of the shutters depends on where you purchase them from, the type chosen  and how many you require. Generally speaking, you can expect to pay anywhere from $20 to $40 for a standard pair.

You will need to clean the shutters on occasion to keep them looking fresh. This is quite easy to do as you only need to remove them from your home and spray them off with a hose and then wash them with soapy water and rinse.  If that is too much work, you may be able to use a vehicle brush used for washing trucks and cars to reach the shutters from the ground or ladder.  You may also need to re-paint them after a few years if they should happen to fade. Painting is  best done by removing plastic shutters from your home first.  This is to avoid overspray or mistakes.  Shop for spray paint that is designed for plastic and be sure to use wide, sweeping strokes when spraying so that you apply an even coat.

Plastic shutters made great sense if you are on a budget and would like to dress up the appearance of your home. They are affordable, very easy to install and will serve you well for many years into the future.

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Chair rail moldings are commonly used to divide walls horizontally, normally at about three feet above the floor and the molding often wraps around the entire perimeter of the room for a finished look. People  use this type of molding as a decorative element for adding a great deal of charm to any room and to give the room a feeling of continuity by tying the entire space together.

Originally. this molding was put in place to serve the purpose of stopping high-backed dining chairs from coming into contact with the walls. Today it is used more for aesthetic purposes as homeowners have rediscovered the beauty and charm it adds to a home. You can find this molding in a wide variety of styles and by far the most popular material used to make it is wood.

A chair rail could be mounted higher than normal to create a dramatic effect. Wide molding that is mounted at eye level could make a great ledge on which to place collectibles or photos. A great way to make the room appear to have a raised panel look is to install moldings in a series of rectangular frames that run up the entire height of the wall. By painting them in a color different than the wall, you will have created a very dramatic look.

You can easily find chair rail molding at most do-it-yourself stores and it is not that difficult to mount it yourself if you have a bit of patience and a few common tools such as a miter box, a power saw and a hammer.  The molding normally comes in pre-cut pieces so it may be necessary to sand the backside of the pieces so that they are somewhat smooth in order to get a good, tight fight when nailing it  to the walls.

Once you have the molding up you will need to fill the nail holes and any gaps you may have created with some wood putty that is sandable – be sure to smooth the surfaces with some fine grit sandpaper. For any wide gaps you should fill them with a bit of paintable caulk. Once finished with all of the steps, you need to only prime and paint the wood the color of your choice.  If you do not feel comfortable with all of the measuring and cutting you can easily hire a general handyman do install the moldings for you.

Another creative idea would be to use a similar concept of wood chair rail moldings, but instead of wood, use tile.  Bathrooms that are finished with tile often can enjoy a modern look and finish by utilizing horizontal tile placement and then using drywall board above the top ledge.  I did this for my own bathroom remodel and the one thing I really like about this choice is that since the drywall can be painted differently very easily, I can get an entirely different look for my bathroom by only choosing a different paint color or  new painting techniques.

Chair rail molding prices vary greatly, depending on the type of wood or even tile used and of course also depending on  how ornate it is. Generally speaking, you can expect to pay around $25 per eight foot section of basic wood molding.  Between the versatility of chair rail moldings and the low cost of the materials, that’s a lot of value for a homeowner looking to add their own unique touch to their home.

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Spray foam insulation is an insulation product that is sprayed into wall cavities where it expands to fill the space.  It can be used when building a new home but is more often used as an after market product to add insulation to the attic or other spaces as it is much easier than tearing out walls to add other types of insulation.

This type of insulation comes in two types: open-cell and closed cell.  The closed cell type is typically made from polyurethane and has a higher insulation value than the open-cell type.  When applied, the insulation consists of a liquid with a foaming agent added.  The insulation professional sprays the substance into the cavities within the walls, floors or ceiling.  There the liquid and foaming agent combine and fill every tiny bit of space within the cavity.  This enables the product to also act as a sealant.  One of the main attractions of using spray foam insulation is that it does not shrink or settle like most other forms of insulations so it is an extremely long lasting product.  This type of insulation does tend to cost more than many other types, however, mainly because it must be professionally installed and because of the extreme durability.

I personally have used a consumer made product like this primarily as a sealer and not so much for its insulating properties.  A few years ago, we had a nasty bee problem where a hive of bees had built their nest behind my front stoop.  The front stoop was a poured concrete set of steps and over the years had separated from the front of my house.  This separation wasn’t a huge gap, but it definitely was large enough for the insects to get into.  The main problem I had was that I didn’t notice the problem for at least two years.  I spent a lot of summers wondering why we always had so many bees flying around our home, and low and behold I finally saw what was happening one day while chasing one around.

So to make a long story short, what I did was to wait until evening when the bees were least active.  They “go to sleep” so to speak in that they aren’t flying back and forth on their daily work routes at night and there isn’t as much activity coming and going out of the hive.   I stuffed some of the largest gaps in my concrete steps with old rags in order to fill up some of the space.  I only bought three cans of the spray foam insulating material and wasn’t sure how much I would need.  Once I had stuffed the cracks, I went ahead and sprayed in the foam.   Immediately the foam expanded and protruded back out of the cracks… letting me know that the space had been filled.  It took me about 30 minutes and cost me about 20 bucks in total. And even better,  I did it for the entire front porch and managed not to get stung by any of the critters.

As a follow up during the next two days, I watched closely after the foam spray insulation had completely dried to see if any more bees were able to come or go.  It turns out I did a pretty good job with my first attempt as there were a few lost straggler bees that were trying to get back into the hive, but couldn’t figure out a way to get past my foam spray job.  All, in all this was a perfect application of using this type of foam spray sealant.

If you find you have a need to fill gaps, cracks, or even use this spray foam as an insulator, you can find out a lot more technical details online at the manufacturer websites.   Of course there are also specialty retailers that are also happy to help you pick out the best product for your job. Just remember, when you look online for spray foam insulation, you will find many websites offering information about the products available and how they are installed so make sure you do due dilligence and check more than one site.   You will be able to compare for yourself the advantages and disadvantages of spray foam insulation as a kind of insulation as well as a sealer.

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Room dividers were created to separate spaces within an open room and are usually a portable folding panel system that stands alone.  These days, though, room dividers are more than just utilitarian and can be used as part of your décor, even when you don’t need to divide the room for any specific purpose.  They come in a huge variety of shapes and designs to fit into just about any theme that you can imagine.

Naturally, your first consideration should be what you want the room dividers for.  Do you have an open floor plan but would like to screen off certain areas to have a bit more privacy?  Perhaps you have company coming and you need to clean up fast – set a room divider up in one corner and toss all the kids’ toys behind it for a quick fix.  Room dividers are perfect for people who live in studio apartments because they can be used to screen off the bedroom area of the apartment and give the illusion of a separate space.  Once you know the purpose of room dividers that can help you determine the size and shape you need.  At that point, the main consideration will become how you can use the divider as a decorative element within the space.

How about adding some design flair to your bathroom?  A decorative room divider goes great with an open tub or antique tub as you can relax while taking a bath and still enjoy a bit of privacy.  Some of these room divding shades are even somewhat translucent allowing light to filter through them. This can give a room a soft glow when placed strategically between an outside lighting source and the interior.

I’ve found some very excellent deals for room dividers online. I’ve tried to search in local stores in my area, but I haven’t had much luck finding something that I like and also that fits within my price range.  Ideally I try to stay at about $100 to $125 or so for these  free standing room dividing partitions. At this price range you can find decent quality products and often time if you decide to buy online, the shipping and tax won’t be charged to your account.

One final thought about these dividers is that you definitely want to make sure to not let any children play in or around them.  At times, if the kids are left unattended, there may be a tendency for the folding room divider  to accidentally fold in one of its leaves and lose its footing and fall over.   Some are made with a wide extension wing to place on the base of the wall which can greatly reduce this risk.  This isn’t to deter or scare you, but just to make you aware that these are defintely not a toy and one falling over could injure a small child or pet fairly easily.  Just take the proper precautions and use common sense and your room divider screen will provide you many years of beauty and functionality.

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Mosquito Magnet is one of the leading brands of mosquito traps on the market.  It uses technology to attract and capture mosquitoes that swarm around your home and prolonged use can disrupt the life cycle of the pests which will further reduce the problem with time.  The Mosquito Magnet has three parts to it  – the lure (carbon dioxide attracts mosquitoes), the capturing mechanism (a vacuum and net) and the controls.

With the Mosquito Magnet, propane is used to release the carbon dioxide.  Instead of burning the propane using fire, it instead uses a process similar to that of the catalytic convertor in your car.  The catalyst in this case consists of either ceramic beads or grid coated with platinum.  The capturing mechanism than vacuums the attracted mosquitoes and sucks them into the holding net.  There, the trapped mosquitoes end up dehydrating and dying.  There is some things to keep in mind when using the Mosquito Magnet or any other type of mosquito trap.

As for placement of the mosquito magnet, its best to put it between the breeding areas of the pests and the home environment.   When you do this correctly, you’ll begin to attract from where the mosquitos are breeding, and pull them from their flight path normally to your family over to the mosquito killer.  Like most mosquito control devices, you  should keep in mind that it takes up to six weeks before you will see much of a difference in the mosquito population.

Because this device runs on propane, you’ll need to make sure you have a full tank of propane when you use the magnet.  One 20 lb cannister of propane should last about 21 days or so.  Its good not to let the propane run completely out as the success of your mosquito control will depend on the continuance of running the mosquito magnet during the prime season.  Always keep a spare tank in your garage and you’ll be able to switch out immediately when you need to.

You can find a lot more information about the Mosquito Magnet brand and the various devices the brand produces by searching online.  Not only will you find more detail at the company’s own website but you will also find many other websites with information on mosquito control techniques that you could use.

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Vinyl siding is a type of siding product that is created from plastic and used on the very outermost layer of a home’s walls.  Siding protects your home from the weather as well as keeping insects and other pests out so you must give careful consideration to the type of siding you will use.  Vinyl siding has been a popular choice in recent years for several reasons but it also has it’s disadvantages.  You will need to compare both to know if vinyl siding is the right choice for your home.

The biggest advantage of vinyl siding for most homeowners is that it doesn’t need the maintenance that many other types of siding need.  The color is an intrinic part of the finished product so it will never need to be painted.  It also is fairly inexpensive when compared to custom painting every few years or even brick facades.   While brick is a great option for very long term, most people can’t afford the extensive upfront costs when comparing brick vs. vinyl siding.

A few things to be aware of about vinyl is that vinyl siding will fade with time from the effects of the sun and weather but this takes a long time and doesn’t affect the protection the siding offers.  Sometimes over the course of many years, the siding will get a chalky substance on it.  The best thing to do in this situation is to wash it down with a soft bristle brush and some vinyl siding cleaner.  This can really help extend the life of your vinyl siding over the years.  Some products claim that you can just spray the soap on and hose it off…but I’ve found that this just usually leaves streaks and dirty areas.   Also if your siding is on a side of your home that gets little sunlight…but lots of moisture, you may have problems with mildew and mildew removal.   If you’re going to clean your vinyl siding, do it right.  Get a ladder, some planking, soft bristle brushes and sponges and spend time on it.  You’ll be rewarded if you take the proper time upfront.

One other caution about siding is that in very cold weather, vinyl siding can become quite brittle.  It snaps and cracks very easily when its really cold, so avoid running into it with a snowblower, car, or the kids sleds.    If you do happen to snap off a chunk of the siding, you may be best advised to wait until Spring or Summer to replace it.  That way you’ll get a better fit for the new piece as the vinyl will be at a proper temperature and able to take its correct shape and flexibility.

For those who are eco conscious, vinyl siding takes less energy to produce and manufacture than some other forms of siding however it is not very recyclable.  Only scraps or leftover unused product can be recycled at this point in time.  Another disadvantage to vinyl siding is the fact that it will release toxins when burned so if in the unlikely event of a house fire, the poisonous fumes could make a fatality or serious injury more apt to occur.

I’ve found that there are many local contractors in most areas that can accomodate vinyl siding installations.  However, I’ve found that generally the ones that specialize in only doing siding and windows usually do the best job.  This is because they work with many different manufacturers of siding and know how to work with each different type and style correctly.    A great way to find a reliable contractor is to ask your friends and family about who they have used for their siding upgrades or  perhaps using an online contractor search like Angie’s List.

You can also do more research to learn more about additional advantages and disadvantages of vinyl siding, by doing a more extensive search online.  Home sites, construction websites and siding manufacturer sites will have a lot of detailed information for you including vinyl siding costs and other pricing per square feet estimates based on style and quality.

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I’ve gone through three copper repiping projects while owning my own home over the past eleven years.   Two of the actual projects were incidental and an afterthought after I had begun other remodeling efforts.  The other effort was a planned upgrade with my Dad helping me over the Holiday’s one winter.    Hopefully from my experiences you can determine how much it will cost you if you are interested in upgrading your home’s plumbing system by doing a copper repipe upgrade.   In this article we’ll talk about what it cost me to do the project myself and then also what I paid professionals  when they did it.

My first copper pipe upgrade was when I decided to remove the slop sink in my basement.  It was a 500 lb cement sink that had been in place since the day the foundation was poured on my house back in 1955.  In fact I’m guessing that the contractors who poured my foundation had some leftover cement and ended up pouring the cement sink as a favor to the original purchaser of the home.  It certainly wasn’t a favor to me.  (lol)    Anyways, my Dad came over for the weekend and we smashed the cement sink apart and removed it completely and then went about repiping the water pipes that ran back to my main water valve.   Because my father is a retired pipe fitter, he obviously had some good experience and the right tools to do this job.  If it were just to me, it would not have gone as smoothly.   As for materials, we bought about 2 sixteen foot 1/2 inch copper pipes, some copper joints and reducers, and some flux stuff which is used when sweating pipes. Then my dad bent, shaped, and installed all the proper piping for me.  I basically was his “apprentice” and did the dirty work while he sweated the copper, fixed up the fittings and got the water valve back in order.  In the end, we managed to install a single plastic slop sink with both a hot and cold water valve and everything worked nicely with no leaks.  We managed to pull out about 10 feet of galvanized steel piping and get rid of it.  It was completely corroded shut with rust and calcium deposits.   The water pressure was greatly improved.  Total cost of doing it yourself  (not including your time)  …. About $350.00

The second project was a few years later when we upgraded/remodeled our single upstairs bathroom.  This turned out to be more of a “surprise” as once we started on the remodel, it turned out that there had been some mold and other rotting wood that had accumulated over the many years that the house was in use.   I decided to spend the money and make sure we wouldn’t have to revisit any structural problems again in the future.  Because of this decision, the contractors essentially gutted the bathroom down to the studs.  When that happened, I noticed the piping in the bathroom leading up to the faucet and shower valves was also all galvanized.  I decided to do a change of work order and have the contractors replace the piping with all copper since the walls were open.  Because we were going to install ceramic tiling on the walls, I didn’t want to have to redo any of that work in the future if some of the galvanized pipes completely closed up.   So in the end, water pressure was tremendously improved and we can now not have to worry about messing with these pipes again for a long time.   The total amount of piping we removed was about 25 feet plus all the valves and fittings.  The length of copper we put in included the vertical runs from the basement up through the floor and all the associated piping for the shower, sink and toilet.   The total cost of this repiping  project was $1200.00.

The final copper repiping project I did was just last year.   It was similar in nature to the bathroom remodeling but instead it was when we remodeled our kitchen.   One main difference going into this project was that I knew that I wanted to gut the kitchen down to the studs and also to replace the galvanized piping.  This galvanized steel piping was the last of the remaining steel piping in my home and I wanted to make sure to get rid of it while the walls were open and it was easily accessible.  This was the most expensive of the three projects, but also it was the most involved and had the most copper.   We replaced all the piping to the sink, dishwasher, and then also added piping to the refrigerator for the automatic icemaker.  I think in total, we replaced about 40 feet of galvanized pipe, plus the contractors got rid of all the old drains and put in new PVC drainage.    They also did some fancy rerouting of the pipes through the studs because of the positioning of the new cabinetry.  The total cost of the copper repiping part of this overall kitchen remodel project was about $4000.00.

So you can see, the easy answer for “How much does copper repiping cost?” is really not a one size fits all answer.  Instead it really depends on your circumstance and how much work needs to be done.  I hope this article helped you to see what I paid and gives you some idea of where your project might fall.  As always, I recommend contacting a good plumber or contractor to give you a reliable honest quote.  If you have trouble finding one, check out Angie’s List.

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Mosquitoes are the bane of many households with the flying, biting pests keeping too many inside instead of enjoying their yards in an evening.  Mosquito control, reducing or eliminating the pests, is something that each one of us can do to enable us to get out in the fresh air without the constant itch and sting of mosquito bites.  While there are many chemical pesticides on the market, with the growing awareness of environmental and health issues, many people are searching for more natural forms of mosquito control instead.

The best thing you can do for natural mosquito control is to get rid of their breeding grounds that might be around your home.  Standing water is where they lay their eggs, either on the surface of the water or just above the waterline.  The water is what helps the eggs hatch.  A pond, of course, is an obvious place for mosquito breeding but there are many smaller spots that you may be overlooking.  Old tires, bird baths and even the roof gutters are all places that will hold water and provide a place for mosquitos to lay their eggs.  Even holes in the ground may hold water where the pests will continue to breed.  If you eliminate all sources of standing water on the property, this will go a long way in reducing the mosquito population in your yard.

Of course, mosquitoes can travel quite a distance from their breeding grounds so you still may need to find further methods of mosquito control.  A search on the web will reveal more information on the ways you can control mosquitoes and other annoying insects in your backyard so you can enjoy being outside again.  One unique solution that I found while searching on this topic was from a company that makes a special bag made of fine netting to capture the mosquitos using a simple, inexpensive box fan.   The solution is so simple and yet apparently looks very effective as long as you set it up properly.   I especially like the fact that it eliminates the mosquitos without you having to douse your family, friends, or pets with chemicals.

Its called the SkeeterBag.  You can check out there website here: http://skeeterbag.com.   Another brief point about this particular product that I thought was nice was that if you have horses or pigs, these box fans with the special netting can really help reduce the mosquito population in your sheds and barns.  You’ll see lots of pictures and examples there.

Aside from just this one example, other non toxic mosquito control options exist too, and you can find specialty retailers online or home improvement stores such as Home Depot or Lowe’s that may also carry handy solutions too.

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Pest control is something most of us are interested in at some point.  The term encompasses anything you do that is an attempt to control, reduce or eradicate a pest problem on your property.  Often people turn to chemical pesticides and poisons in order to control pests but that isn’t always necessary.  Nontoxic methods of pest control can be just as effective without the worry of environmental harm or health risks.

To begin with any type of pest control program, you should know as much as you can about the pest you want to control.  Whether insects or rodents or another type of pest, each species will have it’s own breeding habits and things that repel them.  You should start by finding out what attracts the pest you are trying to control.  By simply eliminating anything that attracts pests you may find your pest control problem goes away on its own.  Another thing that you should be doing is sealing your home against intruders of all sizes.  Insects can get in with the smallest of cracks around a door, windowsill or basement.  Rodents don’t need much more space than that, believe it or not.  Inspect the perimeter of your home and block any cracks or holes that could be admitting unwanted guests.

My particular problem one winter had to do with mice living in my garage.  I stored bird seed and grass seed in my garage, but I never thought of covering up the bags and boxes of seed.  It turns out that a family of mice had burrowed through some concrete garage floor cracks and set up their little happy home inside my joists.  It took me a while to figure out where all the scattered seeds were coming from…I guess I thought it was just the wind blowing leftover stuff around.  So, after considering the best way to get rid of these critters, I ended up using plain general store mouse traps.  I figured I didn’t want to use poison, or toxic granules on them and thought a quick painless solution was to just trap them.  I baited the mouse traps with peanut butter and then set them up along the outside edge of the garage walls where the mice tended to leave their “traces”.   It took a few weeks, but eventually I got all of them and also figured out that I needed to store my grass seed an bird seed in plastic storage boxes.   It has worked out well ever since as I now have no food source available in my garage for any other type of pests that think about making it their new home.

Of course, my story is just one example of nontoxic methods of pest control.    For more information, go online to search specialty retailers for specialized traps, air pellet rifles, or whatever other type of non toxic solution you may be interested in trying.  Also, if you live in a modest size town, you may find that the local exterminator, home improvement stores and even gardening specialty shops  will offer you an abundance of options that you can purchase immediately.

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A whole house fan is a large fan that is usually installed in the ceiling but it’s not your typical ceiling fan.  This fan is designed to pull the hot air from within a building and force it into the attic space.  This creates a pressure within the attic that forces that hot air outside through the soffit vents while the pressure within the house pulls cooler air in through the windows.

This type of fan is a very good addition to your home’s ventilation system and can save you a lot of money on your home energy bills if you live in a warm climate.  The whole house fan can lower the temperature in your home fast and will use a lot less energy to do it than an air conditioner would.  Not only does this save on the costs of cooling, it is also a much more environmentally friendly way to make your house comfortable.  Of course, the whole house fan does have certain disadvantages, as well.  The biggest would be that the air being pulled into your home is not filtered so could be full of allergens like pollen and dust.  Another disadvantage is that the whole house fan tends to be louder because more are made with direct drive motors to increase speed – that also increases noise.  A whole house fan can be ducted instead of ceiling mounted which would eliminate the nouse concern.

A few tips that we’ve picked up from manufacturers of whole house fans that have helped us are also listed here for your convenience.

1) Make sure in cold winter zone climates that you cover the holes that the air flows through during the cold winter months.  Otherwise if the holes are left open, the moist heated  air from your furnace tends to flow up those openings and condense against the cold surface of your roof.  This can lead to dripping condensation and then the follow on to that which is mold growth.  A simple effort in covering the holes, or even ducting the fan directly outside would fix this problem in the cold months.

2) Whole house fans are meant to move warm air from your home to the outside.  They don’t necessarily excel in improving air quality as some companies claim.  While it is true that air flow results from operating whole house fans, it is also of note that they aren’t made primarily with the intention of filtering or improving indoor air quality.

3) What goes in, must go out.  In whole house fan terms ,what this means is that if you are directing air flow from your home into your attic, you must size the escape vents for the air to leave the attic properly.  If not, the air flow pressure in your home will be unbalanced and will have a chance to return to your indoor areas through walls, outlets, and other various cracks.   A simple rule of thumb can be found at this website’s helpful page in item #4:  Here

As for purchasing whole house attic fans, it makes sense to talk to a qualified specialist in your area.  If those don’t exist, then you  can learn more about the different kinds and styles of whole house fans and whether they could be helpful for you by doing a search on the web.  Manufacturers that build these fans themselves, home store websites and of course niche retail building specialty sites will have most of the details you need.

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